Self-Isolation : Days # 1 - # 5
As the world comes to terms with the spread and impact of COVID-19 and we’re learning how to stay sane isolating ourselves and ‘sheltering in place’ (I’ve decided to tackle the art of baking - it’s amazing the places flour ends up!) wine has become something to look forward to each night. A little reminder of pre-pandemic life. On the bright side, this has offered the perfect excuse to raid the cellar each night and I’ve decided to keep track of the bottles that volunteered their service. The following is a record of the first five days, with subsequent days earning their own posts. I’m hoping there won’t be more than fourteen empty bottles, but if not I won’t have to restock until April, 2021.
Day # 1 : 1999 Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
It’s easy to poke fun at Silver Oak’s offerings, especially in today’s world of ‘natural’ wine. This bottle may finally be of legal age but sadly a touch over the hill in my opinion. Aromas of vanilla extract and coconut lotion explode from the glass and are still seemingly unresolved even after 21 years. There’s still gobs of dried red fruits (cherry, cassis, strawberry) and some black plum with tertiary notes of saddle leather, earth and spice. Unfortunately the wine fell apart on the finish, with the grippy, coarse tannins taking over the fading fruit notes. Proof that the modern wines from Silver Oak are not built to last…
Days # 1 & 2 : 2016 Domenica Amato ‘Cherry Camp’ Syrah
This single-vineyard Syrah from California’s cool Sonoma Coast is a great example of well-made Califonia Syrah. Low ABV (12.8%) is a welcome relief from the boozy, jammy style and a nod to the Mecca of Syrah: France’s northern Rhône valley. Rich, ripe red, blue and black fruit (plum, black cherry, raspberry, blueberry) along with savory hints of violet, sage and garlic sausage on the finish are wrapped around a backbone of lifting acidity and gentle tannins with just the right amount of oak makeup. Yum!
A great excuse to support small, family-run boutique wineries!
Day # 2 : 2002 Muelenhof ‘Erdner Treppchen’ Riesling Spätlese
I really don’t understand why there is such a resistance to Rieslings with the average wine consumer these days. At $30/bottle, this beautifully aged, single-vineyard example (the Treppchen vineyard in the village of Erdn on the Mosel River) is crafted from grapes picked at higher levels of ripeness (Spätlese) and, yes, bottled with some residual sugar. However, the slate soils and cool climate keep that sugar in balance, and 18 years in bottle have resulted in a mature, tasty treat. Layered flavors of candied tropical and stone fruits (peach, mango, guava, passion fruit) and lively acidity with some mineral grace notes keep you coming back for more.
The 2002 vintage was not widely well-received, but just because a vintage is not raved about doesn’t mean you should write off all wines from that vintage. You may have to choose your bottles a bit more carefully but you’ll typically be able to pick them up for considerably less than the same bottlings from a ‘better’ vintage.
Day # 3 : 2015 10 Minutes by Tractor ‘Wallis’ Chardonnay
Australia typically isn’t the first country associated with world-class Chardonnay to rival the best of Burgundy, but there are an increasing number of winemakers finding terrific cool-climate sites to work with. 10 Minutes by Tractor is a small, family-run winery in Australia’s cool Mornington Peninsiula and produce some of the best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay coming from down under.
This single-vineyard Chardonnay is sourced from the Wallis vineyard and is a gastronomic treat. Bright citrus and orchard fruit flavors mingle with very well-integrated oak and are accented by hints of white peach on the palate, one of the few hints that this is not from the Côte d’Ôr. A backbone of mouthwatering acidity is a nod to the grapes’ cool-climate upbringing.
Day # 4 : 2007 Storybook Mountain ‘Napa Estate’ Zinfandel
Talk about underrated! I’m continually impressed with the quality of winemaking I’ve tasted from Storybook Mountain Vineyards as evidenced by the depth and complexity of flavor but also the longevity of the wines. Storybook Mountain is not in the common lexicon of Napa wineries, but their Zinfandels blow the bigger names out of the water.
Thirteen years past vintage is not a normal drinking window for Zinfandel, at least in the modern world, as they’re not typically built to age. The majority of Zinfandels today play off the big, bold, intense fruity flavors that come with the combination of old vines and long hang times (to ensure all berries are ripe - Zinfandel is notorious for uneven ripening!). Storybook, on the other hand, plays into the beauties of slightly less-ripe Zinfandel: higher acidity, ripe flavors vs. jammy or stewed.
This is the third 2007 Zinfandel I’ve had from this estate and I’m hooked. Probably drinking at its peak, with an ideal balance of primary (black and red fruits), secondary (vanilla and spice from oak), and tertiary (leather, dried fruits and mushroom from aging) flavors that sing in harmony with the soft but ever present tannins and fresh acidity through the lengthy finish. This is old-school Napa at its best!
Day # 5 : 2014 Remelluri Blanco
The first of two bottles of 2014 I’ve opened and I get why this is one of the most sought after white wines from Spain. This unique blend has deep, intense flavors of ripe melon, stone fruit and citrus with grace notes of fresh herbs and hints of white flowers. Oak is not over-used here, resulting in a soft, round mouthfeel that’s lifted by bursts of refreshing acidity on the finish. This is an elegant, delicate beauty that packs a punch and will only improve with a few more years in bottle. I wouldn’t be surprised if this is making jaws drop in 2030!
A lesson in the art of blending and proof that appellation regulations (they’re very strict in the E.U.) don’t always yield the best wines and can dampen creativity.