Self Isolation : Day # 24

2016 Domaine des Hauts-Baigneux Grolleau

Based in le Jardin de France, Domaine des Hauts-Baigneux is a small production winery run by two friends just outside of Azay-le-Rideau where vins du soif are crafted from traditional Loire Valley varieties. The majority of their vines are planted within the lieu-dit of ‘Hauts-Baigneux,’ a few kilometers east of the capital of Cabernet Franc: Chinon. Their wines come to life in the absence of purchased yeasts, instead relying on ambient, ‘native’ yeast strains to kick off the fermentation process. Additionally, minimal intervention winemaking is practiced here, meaning there is more focus on creating quality in the vineyard rather than in the winery; each wine’s character reflects the year-to-year conditions in the vineyard rather than the winemakers’ decisions in the cellar.

While Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc (for white and red wines, respectively) dominate plantings in this section of the Loire Valley, there are a multitude of lesser-known, ‘indigenous’ varietals that are cultivated here as well. Grolleau is one of these more traditional, local plantings and today is mostly used as a blending varietal in rosé and sparkling wine production thanks to its lower levels of tannins and tart red fruit flavors. The 2016 rendition from Hauts-Baigneux is 100% Grolleau, something most wineries here don’t do, and can be wildly different from vintage to vintage. A characterful, light-bodied red marked by wild aromas of tart red berries, black currants, wild herbs, game, and earth, it needs time to breath to fully come alive. Once unwound, the tantalizing acidic backbone lifts the wine as bright staccato notes of wild strawberry, raspberry, and black currant dance across the palate with the funky, animal character having faded into a supporting role. ‘Natural’ in character and style but without flaw, this represents the better side of the current natural wine movement emanating from the Loire Valley. It made a great pairing with spicy taco bowls!