Nineteen Wines

Finally, a refreshingly social-but-distanced day of drinking that reminded me life before recent events. Comprised almost entirely of some of the most fabulous examples of Chenin Blanc on the market, it was a day to remember. From top bottlings from big names in the Loire Valley and South Africa to niche California bottlings and encompassing styles ranging from bone dry to solidly off-dry and sparkling to still the full spectrum of this versatile and underrated grape was on display. Standouts included the oppsing styles of the 2010 Clos de la Bergerie from biodynamic superstar Nicolas Joly (golden-hued, deep and concentrated with botritus-influenced flavors of honey and ginger) and the 2017 ’Skurfberg’ from Eban Sadie (crisp, bright and mineral-driven in it’s superior balance of elegance and concentration). Jacky Blot’s velvet-labeled sparkler was no slouch either, with a fine, persistent mousse and expressive notes of smoky lemon and slate. The celebration continued over dinner, with wines to honor two occasions: a birthday and National Chenin Blanc Day. Thus the corks were pulled on a 2013 ‘Le Gory’ from Saumur talent Mathieu Vallée at Château Yvonne and an incredible, stunning 1991 Sekt Réserve from Peter Lauer of Germany’s Saar River Valley. The once-prickly acidity has aged gracefully into a state of persistent pleasantness while the soul of the ‘Le Gory’ hasn’t faded over its seven-year life but instead developed into a complex, pensive beast of a Chenin Blanc. However impressive, it was no match for Lauer’s brilliant traditional method Riesling. At an impressive twenty-nine years of age, it was finally disgorged after 27 years sur-lie in July of 2019. Brilliant flavors of tropical and zippy citrus fruits are complimented by floral and lime leaf accents that are supported in their powerful elegance by a backbone of saline-laced slate-y minerality indicative of the grapes’ home along the steep banks of the Saar River. My only disappointment lies in the fact that I only had the single bottle. Peter Lauer’s vintage-dated line of late-disgorged Sekt is not to be missed.