1990 Château Canon-la-Gaffelière
While Bordeaux is arguably the world’s most recognizable wine region it remains somehow underestimated amongst the younger generation of wine drinkers. Entrenched in tradition and, for the most part, unwilling to part with the ingrained appellation rules and the monetary value that comes with them, producers in Bordeaux have failed to attract a younger consumer base. The vast number of sub-regions and the multitude of classification systems all serve to confuse more than simplify and there is an argument to be made against their accuracy in denoting quality. It’s a shame, really, because the storied terroir here really does birth some of the world’s greatest wines that are truly capable of becoming more interesting with age.
This 30-year-old bottle speaks to the greatness of the region. The balance of primary, secondary, and tertiary aromas and flavors speak to the age worthiness of top wines as well as the suitability of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc to the gravelly-clay soils and maritime climate of the region. Classic aromas of cigar box, tobacco, cassis, dried cherry, sage, and spices are indicative of a well-kept bottle in its prime. The once persistent tannins have been allowed to soften and integrate into the wine along with well-proportioned acidity that remains to keep the wine alive on the palate. As with any quality bottle of mature Bordeaux the finish is spectacular in its length, complexity, and concentration of flavor.
While the Bordeaux name is increasingly synonymous with astronomical prices, secretive collectors, and speculative auctions, there are many terrific values still to be had as long as one is willing to put in a minimal amount of effort in researching lesser known chateaux that match the most famous of estates in everything but name recognition.