Does Burgundy Matter?

Well, the obvious answer is: “Of course it does, you imbecile!” But to whom? Certainly it matters to the collectors with six- and seven-digit incomes. It matters to the auction houses that benefit from the stratospheric sums forked over for top bottlings. And, of course, it is integral to the story of Pinot Noir and a jewel in the crown of French wine. As per-bottle prices more frequently start in the triple digits and reach the mid four figures on release, bottlings from the Cote d’Or continue to creep out of reach of mere mortals. One of the reasons so many great wines are coming out of long-overlooked or forgotten about wine regions in both the Old and New World. Even within Burgundy itself, the historically ‘lesser’ appellations, like the Maconnais and the Hauts-Cotes, are beginning to be noticed not only for prices that won’t trigger cardiac arrest but for the excellent quality of top sites. Beaujolais is experiencing a revitalized appreciation, but not for the simple nouveau bottlings. Cru Beaujolais, the creme-de-la-creme appellation of the southernmost Burgundian appellation where Gamay reigns supreme, is being discussed, contemplated, and celebrated to a greater extent than ever before. Even within the hallowed boundaries of the Cote d’Or there are still values to be had. Regional bottlings from good producers can still show value, as this five-year-old bottling from Domaine Parent.

The 2015 Domaine Parent ‘Selection Pomone’ Bourgogne Pinot Noir shows more integration and complexity that most regional bottlings and can still be had for mid-double digits. Medium-bodied with supple tannins and mouthwatering acidity that frame the bountiful red fruit, subtle leather, and earthy flavors, it showcases the Domaine’s style while hinting at both what can be expected from higher-tier bottlings as well as its own future.